My Review Philosophy

Drinking Windows

Drinking windows are always a broad time estimate based on when I feel the wine will be at its best. One of the trends in today’s professional wine reviews is to widen drinking windows and thereby move-up the “start drinking date” to a much earlier period than my palate tends to feel comfortable with. This of course plays into the reality that most wine drinkers and restaurants don’t cellar their wine, thus making it easier to sell expensive bottles.

Fresh wines take bottle age (aka cellaring) to come together. While it’s true that fewer and fewer modern wine drinkers are cellaring their wine for the long term, I’m of the mindset that cellaring brings out the very finest in age-worthy wines. So, my drinking windows generally start later than most critics and extend for a longer timeframe. Know this going into my reviews. It’s all about personal taste. There is no right or wrong in the vinous world when it comes to your palate! Personal preferences rule the day but, suffice it to say that I personally prefer properly aged/cellared wines.

Oak Aging: A Blessing or a Curse

A few words on the oak élevage (aging) of wine. While it is a vital aspect of producing age worthy wines, and for many wines to add the elements to the wine that the winemaker is looking for, not all oak is alike, or created equal. American oak is heavy with grainy tannin and a high vanilla component. French oak can be smooth and caressing with fine-grained tannins and soft, velvety vanilla aspect. Slavonian oak can be the most neutral of them all, with low tannin and low-to-nonexistent vanillin. Add to that the size of the various aging vessels, and you have enough confusion that it takes an aerospace engineer to assess the impacts and influence of the oak on the wine.

And then of course there’s the variability that each grape type responds differently to each oak type. For example, in Rioja the indigenous grapes such as Tempranillo respond very well to American oak. In Oregon, both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay marry nicely with new French oak. And in Italy, while Nebbiolo remains a highly transparent grape type, it doesn’t do as well with an excess of new French oak, yet does do exceptionally well with large format Slavonian oak (called Botti), or used French oak barrels, through which the impact of the oak is reduced by prior use.

While some wines are aged in one variety of oak and one size barrel, in today’s market many wines are aged in a combination of different sized barrels of differing wood types, and with some of the juice aged for one period, while the balance might be aged for a longer period in differing size and wood type barrels. Élevage can even vary based on the vintage characteristics. I generally make some comments about the élevage in many of my reviews, but not all. By paying close attention, one can eventually begin to understand the different impact each has on the wine.

There are other types (species) of wood used, such as chestnut, but they are far less common. If they are in fact used, I’ll point that out.

Overall, my view on oak (and wood aging in general) is that it should always blend neatly into the overall package and never dominate the wine. If-and-when it does dominate, I’ll make comments about it.

Other Types of Élevage Vessels

Oak is not the only vessel used for aging wine. Other vessels include:

  • Stainless Steel – commonly used to create generally non-ageworthy wine with a crisp, bright character, but also used for the fermentation phase of most wines.
  • Cement – preformed cast concrete vessels, both rectangular and egg shaped are also used very commonly. Often these are epoxy lined to create a neutral again vessel that can easily be cleaned between uses and offer a long life. Eggs have become increasingly popular in recent years.
  • Amphora – ceramic/clay vessels made in different sizes and shapes. Historically these were the first vessels used by the ancient Greeks and Romans. They’ve recently seen a resurgence in popularity, particularly with wine makers who are using little-to-no sulfur at time of bottling. A few examples of winemakers using Amphora are Beckman Estate in Oregon, Frank Cornelissen and COS in Sicily, Foradori in Alto Adige, and Felsina in Tuscany even uses them on one of their wines.

Decanting

By wine definition decanting is gradually pouring from one vessel to another without disturbing sediment or lower liquid levels. But it’s much more complicated than that. Decanting is one of the most common procedures prior to serving. It serves two purposes: a) to oxygenate the wine prior to serving, thus allowing the wine to open-up/blossom, and b) to separate off sediment which accumulates in the bottle. Like oak aging, decanting and the introduction of oxygen into the wine can be either a blessing or a curse.

For young wines it is of particular importance because it allows the wine to unwind and soften by introducing oxygen into the wine. Most sommeliers will entertain decanting your wine at a restaurant, especially younger bottles. Aeration devices (funnels that introduce air into the wine as you’re decanting) are particularly effective for young wines. But I never use one, and especially not for older, mature wines. The risk of over-oxygenating mature wines is high, and once you’ve over-oxygenated there’s no turning back. The wine will be flat and of little interest.

A few thoughts on decanting older/mature wine. Some wines (i.e. – grape varieties) handle the introduction of oxygen better than others. Mature Cabernet, Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir handle oxygen impressively well, improving the wines’ flavor and aromas while allowing the “bottle funk” to blow off. Others varieties do not.

I always err on the side of limiting decanting whenever possible. For older wines where sediment has developed over time, it is important for separating off the clean wine from the sediment. Start by standing up the bottle a day-to-a-week in advance. That way the sediment can settle. My preference for older wine is to use either a narrow decanter (I have one the diameter of a wine bottle), or a clean rinsed bottle. You’ll need a funnel for either one.

Slow Oxygenation is a simple method which can be very effective for allowing mature wines to open-up without decanting. Simply pull the cork and allow the wine to breath. I even use this technique on younger wines when I’m not going to drink the entire bottle in one evening. In my reviews I’ll use the term “SO” to signify Slow Oxygenation. I typically pull a cork in the morning, let the wine breath all day to slowly open-up, and then give it a brief decant just prior to serving in order to separate off the sediment. This allows perfectly clean pours.

When decanting mature wine always pour slowly, especially toward the end of the bottle as you approach the sediment. Nothing ruins a great bottle more than a cloudy, grit laced pour!

There Are No Great Wines, Only Great Bottles

Remember, while the experiences I’ve enjoyed with countless bottles may be great, even other worldly, you may have entirely juxtaposed experiences. If you line up six bottles of the identical wine, from the identical vintage, all perfectly stored and acquired from the same source at the same time and have a glass of each lined up in front of you, each wine would taste slightly different and unique from the others. One might be corked, another more advanced and so on. There are no great wines, per se, only great bottles.