1996 Altare, Barolo, Vigneto Arborina (RT97) The cork was pulled at 2pm to allow some breathing and it was served at 6pm. Displaying a garnet-dominated hue, at age 30 the 1996 Arborina has reached peak and will likely not improve but will hold in its currently magnificent place of glory. While Altare remains one of the stalwart modernists, not a shred of new oak is detectable on this wine – their wines always display a mesmerizing level of balance and deft winemaking skills. Showing notes of dark cherries, deep dry forest floor, balsam and soft menthol mixed with a gently smoky minerality, the mouthfeel is soft and gentle, showing the magnificence of long term cellaring. In the past decade this wine has matured and softened, showing dominant tertiary evolution, but I’m not convinced it has improved. Nonetheless,Bravo Elio Altare and your family for your dedication to Barolo! Drink now-2036 Tasted April 2026
1996 Ceretto, Barolo, Bricco Rocche (RT98) The cork was pulled at 2pm to allow some breathing and it was served at 6pm. The 1996 Bricco Rocche has truly emerged from a semi-stellar wine to an utterly mind-blowing bottling – certainly one of the top bottlings of the 1996 vintage. A tiny bottling from this monopole with less than a few thousand bottles produced each in this vintage, Ceretto’s flagship wine is a superstar this evening displaying a pale, translucent garnet hue. The freshness and structure of the aromatics are captivating, drawing one back to the glass for another whiff as notes of pungent red cherry compote, dried raspberry liqueur, toasted chestnuts, marzipan, wild herbs, and profound minerality explode from the glass. The bouquet keeps changing in the glass begging for another whiff. The palate is equally magical, showing superb balance of fruit, acid and tannin, all harmonizing in sync. The most memorable wine I’ve ever had from Ceretto, making the evening quite memorable. Drink now-2036+ Tasted April 2026
