2007 Antichi Vigneti Di Cantalupo, Ghemme DOCG, Collis Carellae (RT94) This excellent, 100% Nebbiolo bottling from the Ghemme DOCG, just across the valley from Gattinara, is a fine example of the finesse and balance producers from the appellation can achieve. Displaying a medium ruby, garnet-tinged hue, the deeply ripe bouquet reveals notes of ripe, black wild cherry, dried red raspberry, rose hips, savory herbs and a pan iron richness. The fruit coats the mouth and is wonderfully balanced, the acids and tannins combining juiciness and a beautiful closure to each sip. Skillfully crafted and currently in a very nice stage of its evolution at age 18, this holds the potential to continue to age gracefully for another 15+ years. Drink now-2040+ Tasted November 2025
Ghemme is a tiny appellation of just under 100 acres of vineyards and like nearby Gattinara, which is just across the valley, is a blending DOCG where Nebbiolo – aka Spanna – making up 85% of the blend, is permitted to be blended with a a combination totaling 15% Uva Rara – aka Bonarda di Gattinara – and Vespolina. A minimum of 34 months total ageing is required, including a minimum of 18 months in wood beginning November 1 of the harvest year. Riserva is a minimum of 46 months of total ageing, including a minimum of 24 months in wood.
The Arlunno family – owners of Antichi Vigneti Di Cantalupo – trace their Ghemme roots to the early 6th century and have been in the vineyard business for the last 200 years. When appellation status was bestowed on Ghemme in 1969, Carlo Arlunno set out replanting the family vineyards based on quality and later invested in the construction of a new winery – Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo – in 1977. A few years later the son, Alberto, took the helm, releasing his first estate-bottled single vineyard wine, Collis Breclemae, in 1979. Daughter Benedetta carries on the family vinous tradition today and continues to raise their playing level. The Cantalupo estate comprises a total of 35 hectares in Ghemme and is the flagship winery of the appellation.
La Carella is one of the historic vineyards in the appellation and is sustainably farmed. The first harvest was in 1983, comprised exclusively of estate-grown grapes. The grapes for this bottling are de-stemmed, which adds to its suppleness. Fermentation is by indigenous yeasts only and aging is in large neutral casks. There are four distinct bottlings of Ghemme produced by the Cantalupo winery: a classico Ghemme bottling plus three single-vineyard bottlings including Collis Breclemae, Collis Carellae and Signore di Bayard. Only the best selection of old vines is used for each of single vineyard bottlings.
