1996 Giacosa, Barolo, Villero (RT98) Bruno Giacosa, one of the all-time traditional masters of Barolo and Barbaresco, first crafted his Villero bottling in 1978, when he produced both a classico bottling (white label) and a Riserva bottling (red label). That was the only vintage he produced a Riserva Villero. 1996 was the last vintage this wine was bottled, so this is Giacosa’s Villero swan song. Over those years it has delivered some spectacular showings, and this bottling shined well beyond my wildest expectations, surely near the pinnacle for this vineyard site. At age 29, what is clearly a unicorn wine reveals its true magical ambiance as it reaches for the heights of gustatory perfection. It has achieved a near magical point of balance in its evolution with its stunning aromatics leading to an equally alluring palate. Fragrantly charged notes built on a foundation of dried fall fruits and faded rose petals lead to a defining overtone of plum liqueur, Christmas cake spice and a smattering of toasted hazelnuts. This is in an amazing place. Surely there aren’t many bottles remaining in the market, as a mere 8,536 bottles were produced, making it limited in every way. This was bottle #2353. I have but one more bottle remaining in my cellar, which I will open at age 35 or beyond, although the temptation from now until then will be strong. Bravo to the Master, RIP Bruno! Drink now-2036+ Tasted on a cool Colorado mountain evening at 7500 feet elevation, August 2025
