Mauro Molino – 2020 Barolos and more!
The 2020 vintage Barolos have now arrived in the US market and should be readily available. They are, to say the least, rather impressive, coming between two benchmark vintages: 2019 and 2021. While it’s easy to understand many buyers who will flock to those vintages, the wise, seasoned veterans will always follow great wine makers over great vintages and will no doubt source some true, cellar-worthy gems from the 2020 vintage.
Mauro Molino is a perfect example of this phenomena. One need look no further than the 2020 Conca, which is a mind blowing wine, to glean exactly what I’m referring to. As always, I suggest the smart shopper move fast to acquire the wines they’re interested in, especially those they want to cellar. Some are crafted in miniscule quantities and sell out quickly. Vinification of Molino’s 2020 Barolos is identical to their 2019’s. Matteo told me he feels “the 2020 vintage is more elegant and drinkable compared to 2019. In fact, 2020 stands out for its excellent aroma and pleasantness”. For their Barbera, the 2022 reviewed below comes from a relatively hot vintage, with the quantity lower than normal, but overall quality being excellent.
Some important news from the winery: in 2025 Molino will release their first-ever Barbaresco. In 2022 they had the opportunity to buy two small plots in Treiso which they quickly snatched up. Next year they will release their Barbaresco Giacosa and their Barbaresco Casot. For the Molino family, this represents a dream come true. For years they’ve been eyeing various Barbaresco vineyards, but the market is very competitive with vineyards commanding extraordinary prices and it took time and patience to realize their dream. I can hardly wait to taste the wines!
Regarding the 2024 vintage, from which they wrapped up harvesting grapes in mid-October, it was a very challenging harvest as the weather conditions were complicated. Reminiscent of cooler vintages of the past, it was a vintage that challenged their winemaking skills. Mauro’s experience was important to best manage the vineyards during the summer and autumn phases as the amount of rainfall during the year was very significant. I’m looking forward to tasting their 2024 in a few years.
2022 Mauro Molino, Barbera d’Asti, Leradici (RT92) With its purple-tinged ruby hue, the 2022 Leradici shows notes of sour red cherry, Greengage plums, scruffy herbs, new saddle leather, hints of brown tobacco and a pinch of minerality. The freshness of the palate makes this a perfect pairing for pasta dishes and salumi as the ripe, soft red fruited palate plays counterpoint to the fresh acidity and soft tannin on the finish. This is a delicious food wine for drinking now and over the near term. Drink 2025-2030 Tasted November 2024
The Molino family purchased this parcel in 2015 and has proven to produce a unique, impressive Barbera the remains highly affordable. Aged in 100% stainless steel, yet it conveys a palate texture that suggests being aged in wood with spiciness to add to that character. This is a top value Barbera, check it out, you’ll be glad you did!
2020 Mauro Molino, Barolo (RT93) The 2020 Barolo classico is a wonderful, complete wine, delivering fine quality at an affordable price point. Its pale garnet tinged ruby hue gives way to notes of red raspberry, sour red cherry liqueur, balsam, generous minerality, hints of dried florals and a pinch of rose hips. The palate is medium weight, showing bright red berry fruit, generous acidity and firm tannins. Affordable, approachable and savory, this is a perfect pairing for grilled meats and sausages. Drink 2026-2040+ Tasted November 2024
This classico Barolo is blended from grapes grown in the Annunziata cru, in the lower part of La Morra, the Berri cru, on the high slope to the southwest of La Morra, and the Perno cru, in the municipality of Monforte d’Alba. The Perno cru adds structure while the Annunziata and Berri fruit adds elegance. The soil in these crus leans more toward clay dominant. This is a relatively large production bottling with 45,000 bottles produced. It receives a medium-long maceration. It is then aged in 10-15 year old 5000 liter Botti crafted from untoasted French oak, which is sourced from a variety of forests, for 20 months.
2020 Mauro Molino, Barolo, La Serra (RT95) Once again in the 2020 vintage La Serra is a beautiful single cru expression of Barolo, showing magnificent opulence and impressive gravitas. It delivers empowering aromatics on first pour, sending up stimulating notes of Marasca cherry, mentholated cranberry liqueur, violets, hints of balsam and aromatic cedar. With time in the glass hints of limestone minerality emerge. The palate is packed with delicious ripe fruit, is mid-weight and delivers refreshing acidity. The tannins are ripe and sweet, showing the suave side of dryness. Another endearing vintage of La Serra, this is a wine for mid-to-long term cellaring to reveal and optimize the impressive details. Drink 2026-2045+ Tasted November 2024
The La Serra cru is a superb example of the enlightened winemaking approach at Mauro Molino with the fruit being sourced from a single parcel of estate property. The fruit is hand harvested, gently pressed and fermented. It is then aged for 20-24 months in used French oak mainly sourced from the Troncais forest. The barrels range from 225 to 3000 liters and is either untoasted, or very lightly toasted. This wine expresses deft winemaking skills and reveals no evidence of small barrel again. Marvelous, understated winemaking!
2020 Mauro Molino, Barolo, Conca (RT96+) Counterintuitively pale, this translucent garnet-tinged powerhouse sends up thunderous notes of wild cherry elixir, ripe Methley plum with Christmas spices, eucalyptus, a pinch of umami and crushed limestone dust. The palate is mouth-coating, painting every corner with uber-unctuous fruit, the deep acidity plays bottomless bass-heavy freshness, the tannins mounting a sexy-suave finish with their ripe, lushness. This is a wine of impressive beauty and a real standout of the 2020 Barolos and more resembles a Riserva-like bottling than a classico, complete with its impressive weightlessness buttressed by powerful thrust. This wine is right up there with the 2019 Conca and is a must own wine for you cellar rats! Drink 2028-2050+ Tasted November 2024
The Conca bottling, from the flagship vineyard where Molino first started winemaking, is another of their single parcel bottlings. I suspect this wine will take a long winter nap in the coming years (aka closing-down), so I’m glad I caught it in an open, expressive mood. Do not despair if it sleeping when you pull the cork, it just needs more cellar time or some serious decanting if you’re drinking it on the younger side. Like the La Serra, the fruit is hand harvested, gently pressed and then fermented and macerated. It sees 22-24 months of aging and like the La Serra bottling, is only aged in 225-3000 liter, untoasted or lightly toasted, used, French oak barrels. Like La Serra, again, you would never know it! Bravo Matteo Molino and your Team!