St. Innocent Winery: 2019-2022 Releases
It all began in 1988 when Mark Vlossak, the son of a wine importer, founded St. Innocent. The winery is named after Mark’s father, whose middle name was Innocent. His first bottling was simply labeled Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, a seemingly simple enough nomenclature for what has become a highly complex series of AVAs laced with impressive vineyards. The history here is rich with various bottlings as Mark was one of early trailblazers of the single vineyard movement and a pure classicist through-and-through. Annual production averages between 6-7,000 cases and Mark remains focused on quality over quantity, while meticulously embracing highly traditional winemaking techniques and style. He is closely supported by a small Team that includes his wife – Vickianne – who runs the food program, and his daughter – Makenzie – who is in training to assume full winemaking responsibilities when Mark retires.
The values they embrace are found in the heart and soul of traditional winemaking. From their website I quote: “A true expression of Place is not found in overt fruit or sweet oak notes. It is mainly expressed in secondary notes: spicy, floral, earthy, and savory facets. The texture is paramount. How a wine feels on your palate, where you taste it, how it lingers, and its density all reveal the expression of a specific place. We work with new oak. Modest use of new oak can support a wine and create a more precise expression. However, we find that a barrel’s sweet and smoky oak aromas and flavors can obscure terroir. We intend for you to taste the wine and not the oak.
The winery was built to help us make wine more naturally, using minimal technology. We fill the fermenters and bottle by gravity flow. Our barrels rest in an underground room with naturally controlled temperature and humidity. The barrels are never moved during their aging, nor is any machinery allowed in the barrel cellar; all work is done by hand. We believe that simplicity in this process allows the wine’s personality to be fully expressed.”
I found their wines to be real, authentic, honest expressions of the varieties they bottle and embracing traditional wine crafting skills at the finest. Their whites – Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay – are all downright beautiful. Their Pinot Noirs, on top of the world tasty and expressing the respective terroirs where the grapes are grown. Classic, traditional expressions of Oregon Pinot Noir, and representative of the direction the Oregon movement is headed.
They currently bottle wine from 5 single vineyard sites, spread around the Willamette Valley: Enchanted Way, Freedom Hill, Momtazi, Shea and Temperance Hill.
- Enchanted Way, which is Willamette Valley AVA where they have 15 acres of estate-owned plantings. This site best expresses Chardonnay, where they have it currently planted with Clone 76. They also have a significant amount of Pinot Noir planted here. This site is adjacent to the winery, was the most recently planted of their vineyards and the vines are just now coming into ideal age for producing high quality grapes. Note: I did not review any wines from the Enchanted Way vineyard in this sample set.
- Freedom Hill, Mount Pisgah AVA, is a low elevation hillside vineyard which faces mainly east. They have planted 3 acres of Pinot Blanc, 6 acres Dijon clone Chardonnay and 7 acres Pinot Noir. Their activity on this site dates back to 1992 when a 4 acre block was planted with Wädensil and Pommard clone Pinot Noir. This site produces their impressive Chardonnay bottling (2 vintages reviewed in this feature) where the Dijon clone excels. Here, the soils are poor, producing a Chardonnay similar in style to Chablis, but showing a bit less limestone and oyster shell.
- Momtazi vineyard, McMinnville AVA, where they have been a partner since 2006 and have sourced fruit. Here is a source of high elevation Pinot Noir at close to 800 ft. and their blocks there are highly exposed lending to a very sun-exposed site with they can attain optimal ripening. The soils here are complex, shifting from sections where volcanic soils are folded into more sandy soils. They produce mostly Pinot Noir with a small amount of Pinot Gris from this site and the Pinot Noir develops into a powerful style with deeply structured, dark fruit and a stand-out spicey character. They have a total of 17 acres of vineyard at Momtazi.
- Shea Vineyard, the legendary large scale 290 acre property with 155 acres planted to vine. 149 acres is planted with Pinot Noir, the balance Chardonnay. This site is located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA and they buy fruit from local legend Dick Shea. Their grapes are sourced from the Terrace Block, which is sedimentary sandstone soils and is planted with Pommard clone Pinot Noir, and Block 6, which is sedimentary limestone. Block 6 is currently under intermittent replanting with Pinot Noir Pommard 115 clone.
- Temperance Hill, Eola-Amity Hills AVA, positioned in the central part of Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is a site that St. Innocent has partnered with since 1994. It contains three blocks of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Reisling plantings and is mostly planted with Pommard Pinot Noir clone, along with Dijon clone Chardonnay. Ranging is elevation from the 600-to-800s, it is the highest site producing fruit in southern Eola-Amity Hills.
Some exciting things are happening at the winery. First, the Enchanted Way Vineyard is now of proper maturity and they will produce single “block” bottlings from this site, which should prove a highly interesting effort. These wines will mostly be offered to their Wine Club members, but later they may trickle out to the broader market. Even then their availability will be limited. Second, a single “block” Riesling from Temperance Hill will be released sometime soon. Also, something to keep an eye on is their Apple Brandy project, which is well underway. This is a deep passion of Mark, who adores Calvados, and will be a project to keep an eye on.
For this feature I reviewed a dozen recent release wines including four whites and 8 Pinot Noirs. I found it quite interesting to compare-and-contrast the Pinot Noirs, as they were direct comparisons of the 2019 and 2021 vintages. I found myself leaning more toward the 2021s, despite most vintage reports favoring 2019 over 2021. Whatever the reason, the wines were across the board impressive! I followed them over numerous days, returning to re-evaluate, and they held up quite well. I strongly suggest you check out this winery, they’re on top of their game and over-delivering in a market that’s becoming increasingly expensive for the consumer and harder and harder to find honest, real wines in. On to the reviews…..
2022 St. Innocent, Pinot Blanc, Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA, Freedom Hill Vineyard (RT92) The 2022 Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill reveals a medium platinum hue that shows fresh bright aromatics that build momentum in the glass. White peach, green apple liqueur, honeysuckle and hints of crushed gravel taunt the aromatic senses. The palate is rich and packed with yummy fruit as it gently coats the mouth, the acidity priming your palate for another sip. This is a bit riper and more generous than most Pinot Blancs, making it particularly attractive. Drink now-2027 Tasted July 2024
Located 10 miles southwest of Salem in the foothills of the Coast Range. With its southwest exposure, the Freedom Hill Vineyard, positioned at 475 ft elevation, is subject to high diurnal swings making it ideal for ripening with high acid retention while preserving freshness. These vines were planted in 1993 and 2008. This wine is crafted in a style designed to emphasize ripeness and textural richness, it was fermented in 24% Acacia casks and 76% in stainless tanks, with 8 months aging on lees. Yields were excellent in this vintage at 5 tons per acre. 702-12 bottle cases were produced.
2022 St. Innocent, Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills AVA, Temperance Hill Vineyard (RT91+) Pale straw with an aromatic overlay of gentle, faint petrol are the background for dominant notes of lemon zest, sweet grapefruit, under-ripe mango, jasmine and a dusting of minerals the take centerstage. This is a brightly energized, dry and crisp style of Riesling, and quite the opposite of German spätlese and auslese, which are sweet. The palate is generously built on ripe fruit and is offset with lovely acidity. Drink now-2028+ Tasted July 2024
Crafted with fruit sourced from the Certified Organic Temperance Hill Vineyard where the Riesling grapes are planted on the highest point of the Postes Verdes block. Thin volcanic soils are prevalent here and combined with the altitude and exposure to the elements the vines struggle through severe stress, creating a strong sense of terroir. Grapes are harvested late into the last week of October and fermented in stainless with the fermentation halted just shy of completion. This is a tiny production bottling with just 262-12 bottle cases produced, alcohol is 10%.
2020 St Innocent, Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, Freedom Hill Vineyard (RT93) The medium gold hued 2020 Chardonnay Freedom Hill is beautiful delivering notes of golden apple, chalky pear, citrus blossom and a pinch of sea salt. The bouquet continues to evolve with time in the glass as notes of Meyer lemon and a smidge of toasted almond emerge. On the palate the precisely dosed fruit is perfectly ripe yet charismatically profiled with delicious precision. Not over-maloed, or over oaked and excessively buttery like so many domestic Chardonnays, everything here is about precision and finesse. Very Old World styled, this is a lovely Chardonnay and very impressive! Drink now-2035 Tasted July 2024
Located 10 miles southwest of Salem in the foothills of the Coast Range. With its southwest exposure, the Freedom Hill Vineyard, positioned at 500 ft plus elevation, is subject to high diurnal swings making it ideal for ripening with high acid retention while preserving freshness. The grapes are harvested from Dijon Clone vines (76 and 548) that were planted in 2006 & 2007 in sedimentary clay loam soils. This wine is crafted from whole cluster pressed and fermented in casks with native yeasts, going through complete malolactic, followed by aging in used French Oak barriques for 11 months. Yields were lower in the challenging 2020 vintage at 2.3 tons/acre. 816-12 bottle cases were produced.
2021 St Innocent, Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, Freedom Hill Vineyard (RT94) A shade lighter than its 2020 counterpart, here the aromatics are superbly focused and built with greater depth on a structured, terroir-driven foundation. Alluring notes of lemon oil, hawthorn, creamy polenta, white flowers and a puff of gunflint lead the charge. The bouquet is both superb and captivating while the mouth texture is ripe and full bodied with a voluminous texture. The acidity is soft and caressing, yet it maintains an energized feel, while the finish is long. This is a striking Chardonnay, and a wine to buy and laydown, although I’m not sure how long I could keep my hands off them. It’s that irresistible! Drink 2025-2038 Tasted July 2024
Located 10 miles southwest of Salem in the foothills of the Coast Range. With its southwest exposure, the Freedom Hill Vineyard, positioned at 500 ft plus elevation, is subject to high diurnal swings making it ideal for ripening with high acid retention while preserving freshness. The grapes are harvested from Dijon Clone vines (76 and 548) that were planted in 2006 & 2007 in sedimentary clay loam soils. This wine is crafted from whole cluster pressed and fermented in casks with native yeasts, going through complete malolactic, followed by aging in used French Oak barriques for 11 months. Yields were 2.7 tons/acre. 925-12 bottle cases were produced.
2019 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA, Freedom Hill Vineyard (RT93) The 2019 Freedom Hill reveals spicy notes of raspberry, Morello cherry, loamy earth, hints of mushroom and notes of sappy, sticky balsam. The palate maintains a bright, fresh and vibrant persona layered with fresh fruit, bright, energized acidity and supple, ripe tannins. This is an attractive bottling with an excellent future that can be enjoyed in the short term or over the next 15+ years. Drink 2024-2038+ Tasted July 2024
This bottling, sourced from a Certified Sustainable Vineyard, comes from plantings in old sedimentary soils at 520-589 feet elevation. Two blocks are blended into Freedom Hills PN, one which was planted in 2004 with Pommard and Wädensil clones, the other was in 2008 with Clone 777. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless tanks using native yeasts (no inoculation). The juice then gets a gentle pressing and ages for 16 months in French oak, of which 24% were new with no fining. 1117-12 bottle cases were produced in this vintage.
2021 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA, Freedom Hill Vineyard (RT94) With its aromatics showing dark Bing cherry, ripe Ariel plum, deep notes of the forest after rain, savory spices and a wisp of mineral dust. With time in the glass billows of smoke emerge, this is an impressively powerful aromatic profile. The mouth feel is equally dark and rich with medium density acidity and finishing with ripe succulent tannins. Drink 2025-2038 Tasted July 2024
This bottling, sourced from a Certified Sustainable Vineyard comes from plantings in old sedimentary soils at 520-589 feet elevation. Two blocks are blended into Freedom Hills PN, one which was planted in 2004 with Pommard and Wädensil clones, the other was in 2008 with Clone 777. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless tanks using native yeasts (no inoculation). The juice then gets a gentle pressing and ages for 16 months in French oak, of which 22% were new with no fining. 1166-12 bottle cases were produced in this vintage.
2019 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, McMinnville AVA, Momtazi Vineyard (RT95) The Momtazi vineyard is the source of profoundly masculine, powerful pinot noir. Impressive, resounding notes of black cherry liqueur, ripe pomegranate, mentholated red currant, balsam sap and wild herbs dominate. The palate feel reveals mouth coating, genuinely ripe fruit with impressive, mouth watering acidity and proud tannins that bring up an attractive finish. This is a beautiful wine that should cellar impressively well. I highly recommend it, don’t hesitate to pull the trigger. Drink now-2040 (or longer?) Tasted July 2024
Crafted from fruit grown on poor, high elevation soils at 680-760 feet elevation. This vineyard is Certified Biodynamic by Demeter, with the vines planted in 1999 and 2004. Destemmed grapes were fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 20% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 1248-12 bottle cases were produced.
2021 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, McMinnville AVA, Momtazi Vineyard (RT96) Strikingly similar in profile to the 2019 Momtazi Pinot Noir with even deeper and more thunderous bass notes and heft. The aromatics show an impressive, almost Grand Cru-like character that power lifts its way upward. Perfectly ripe wild cherry, seductively sweet herbs, Christmas spices, sous bois and faint notes of porcini create an impressive, memorable profile. The palate is lush and packed with deliciously ripe fruit, buttressed with bright acidity and firm tannins. This should age effortlessly and is highly cellar worthy. I strongly recommend laying some of this down and watching it unfold over time. Bravo! Drink 2026-2042 Tasted July 2024
Crafted from fruit grown on poor, high elevation soils at 680-760 feet elevation. This vineyard is Certified Biodynamic by Demeter, with the vines planted in 1999 and 2004. Destemmed grapes were fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 20% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 1071-12 bottle cases were produced.
2019 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District AVA, Shea Vineyard (RT94) With a few years of bottle age under its belt the 2019 Shea bottling reveals soaring aromatics of spicey Maraschino cherries with echoes of a slightly sour dimension, red raspberry liqueur, a pinch of earthiness and a wisp of porcini. Its deliciously dusty sweet fruit is balanced by crisp acidity that maintains a brightness to the mouthfeel. The palate weight displays gorgeous mid-weight and is classic in every measure. The bottle evolution strikes me as slow and steady. Drink now-2036 Tasted July 2024
Crafted with fruit sourced from the legendary Shea vineyard, this is a LIVE Certified Vineyard. Two blocks in this massive vineyard site are the source of the grapes for this bottling – Block 6 and Terrace Block. The former is a hilltop site with shallow sedimentary soils planted with Pommard and 115 clones. The latter is a steep, southwest oriented block olanted with the Pommard clone. Like the other Pinot Noirs from St. Innocent, this wine is fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 26% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 1275-12 bottle cases were produced.
2021 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District AVA, Shea Vineyard (RT95) In its current youthful stage of evolution, this shows sweet, mentholated strawberry, raspberry, seductive herbs, spices, wisps of minerals and a spark of gunflint. The palate is bright and fresh, with gorgeous balance. The palate weight is mid-density and elegantly focused, supported by delicious, mouthwatering acidity and sexy ripe tannins. I expect this will develop in a positively refined direction and will reward those who have the patience to cellar it. An outstanding bottling! Drink 2025-2039 Tasted July 2024
Crafted with fruit sourced from the legendary Shea vineyard, this is a LIVE Certified Vineyard. Two blocks in this massive vineyard site are the source of the grapes for this bottling – Block 6 and Terrace Block. The former is a hilltop site with shallow sedimentary soils planted with Pommard and 115 clones. The latter is a steep, southwest oriented block planted with the Pommard clone. Like the other Pinot Noirs from St. Innocent, this wine is fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 26% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 1094-12 bottle cases were produced.
2019 St. Innocent, Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity AVA, Temperance Hill Vineyard (RT93) The 2019 Temperence Hill shows a more approachable, fruiter and less structured side of St Innocent’s Pinot Noirs. Attractive notes of sweet raspberry, red cherry, hints of dusty earth, bergamot orange and a splash of lavender are the main act, all-in attractive and enticing. The palate is loaded with ripe, juicy fruit, soft acidity and suave tannins. The is a delicious vintage of Temperance Hill and should drink well for savoring in the near term, or for age well for mid-term cellaring. Drink now-2035 Tasted July 2024
This site is exposed at high elevation rising to over 800 feet elevation, where St. Innocent has 2 blocks of Certified Organic grapes planted in thin, weathered volcanic soils. The vines were planted in 1984 on both blocks, the East Block oriented toward the SE, the R Block facing south. Destemmed grapes were fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no SO2 and no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 22% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 777-12 bottle cases were produced.
2021 St Innocent, Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity AVA, Temperance Hill Vineyard (RT93+) The bouquet of the 2021 Temperence Hill reveals fresher, more vibrant fruit than its counterpart 2019 with excellent lift and definition of fruit. Mentholated notes of deep Morello cherry, strawberry liqueur, cranberries, hints of chanterelles, airy wisps of the forest floor and fresh lilacs. The mouth texture delivers a fruit-driven wallop, revealing ripe fruit, sensual acidity and suave, gentle tannins. This will hold up well with mid-term cellaring or can be enjoyed in the near term with friends and food. Drink 2025-2037 Tasted July 2024
This site is exposed at high elevation rising to over 800 feet elevation, where St. Innocent has 2 blocks of Certified Organic grapes planted in thin, weathered volcanic soils. The vines were planted in 1984 on both blocks, the East Block oriented toward the SE, the R Block facing south. Destemmed grapes were fermented in a combination of stainless and Burgundy oak fermenters with no SO2 and no inoculation (all natural yeasts) and then aged in French oak, of which 22% were new, for 16 months. Gravity bottled with no fining. A total of 1047-12 bottle cases were produced.
