Cantine Luca Leggero – a Rising Star

In 2014 a highly ambitious idea was born: the creation of a new winery, started by passionate young winemaker Luca Leggero, in Canavese, Villereggia, which is located just south of the southern foothills of the Alps. Luca embraced a strong historical foundation with a focus on the future of the local region by growing two local clones: Picotendro (aka Nebbiolo) and Erbaluce, an  interesting white varietal. Both grapes are grown with organic and biodynamic techniques. They also are growing and bottling an ancient and unique clone of Dolcetto, which is also certified organic and biodynamic called Dolcetto delle Langhe in Murazzano (CN), Alta Langa.

The highlights and philosophy of their grape growing operation is summarized as follows:

  • Employing vineyard strategies that focus on the rescue of ancient clones already cultivated in Villareggia since the 10th century with an emphasis on the three varieties mentioned above.
  • Utilizing organic and biodynamic agriculture thanks to the use of microorganisms and self-produced macerations for the defense and natural fertility of the soil. Their objective to maximize the expression of their unique terroir which is comprised of loose soil (65% sand and very large glacial skeleton already in cultivation, which further increases up to 95% of sand covering a large area).
  • In the cellar they employ careful, natural vinification that respects and enhances their terroir by using indigenous yeasts for fermentation and then aging their wines in mostly 7.5 and 16 hl amphora. For their Erbaluce they only use amphora while for their Nebbiolo they also utilize 25-50 hl wood along with a 50 hl truncated cone which we also use for the vinification of a selected harvest.
  • Starting with the 2023 vintage they have also introduced refining/aging in tonneaux on their Erbaluce with the goal of creating greater complexity, volume and a longer finish.

Leggero is progressive in their approach to bottle closures, using mostly composite corks similar to those from the esteemed producer Diam on their classico wines, but they are sourced from a producer that uses a natural cement extracted from grape seed oil. For their top bottlings they employ natural cork tapped from premium cork blanks, which are controlled singularly, thus far with excellent success. While they aspire to expand production in the coming years, and they do have suitable sites expanding their vineyards, their primary goal is to maintain the quality of their wines. As they say, growth will be slow and steady.   

As each vintage passes, I expect to see more refinement and tweaking of their wine making techniques, along with some growth in production levels. Luca Leggero’s wines are currently available in the New York market and will soon be launched in California and Nevada. Keep an eye peeled for them, this is lovely stuff from a committed producer!  

A Bit of Background on Erbaluce

The Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG is located on the southern edge of the Dolomite Mountain foothills, about 35 miles north/northeast of the city of Asti. It was elevated to a DOCG in 2010. The production area includes 33 municipalities and the majority of the 300-400 hectares of total Erbaluce plantings are in the Erbaluce di Caluso appellation.

Broadly speaking, Erbaluce is a white variety that is both high in acidity and does not ripen uniformly. Finding broad shouldered, ripely styled bottlings can be difficult, but despite the challenges, there are the go-to producers that are bottling a tasty style of Erbaluce. There are also Riserva and Passito versions bottled from this grape, the latter of which is quite rare, along with a Spumante version as well. The wines reviewed below are of the dry, crisp persuasion.

Erbaluce is a hard-to-find, Piedmontese variety that has great challenges ahead of it. While arguably rare, when you’re finally introduced, most bottling show a fairly edgy and aggressive style of wine. Add to that the lack of overall marketing, which has exacerbated its challenges, making it even more difficult to find. These factors have resulted in a variety of unique and inspiring bottlings, but they can be hard to find outside of Italy. The wines I tasted were shipped directly to me from Luca Leggero’s winery.

2021 Luca Leggero, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG, Rend Nen (RT92) The slightly bleached platinum hue belies what’s hidden within where notes of crisp Asian pear, firm lemon, white peach, hints of alpine white flowers and structured minerality make an initial appearance. With time in the glass, the bouquet continues to unfurl, lending additional weight and developing a generous mouth texture as the winemaking maintains its focus showing a generous mid-palate. The palate is delightful and focused and gently coats the mouth as the acidity keeps you returning for another sip. This is a lovely warm season white that pairs perfectly with a variety of hard cheeses, seafood and light pasta recipes. Drink now-2027 Tasted June 2024  

Crafted from 100% estate grown organically farmed Erbaluce, aged 7 months in amphora of 16 hl and 7.5 hl along with tonneaux followed by a minimum 7 months in bottle prior to release.

2023 Luca Leggero, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG, Turciaura (RT93) With a light, silvery-straw tinged hue, I’m pleasantly surprised by the depth of aromatic expression within. Notes of rich, warm ripe fruit emerge with golden apple, honey dew melon, hints of fresh ginger and a blast of fresh orange blossom that displays this wine’s florally exuberant bouquet. The tonneaux aging has added generous mid-palate depth and dimension, while the amphora keeps it fresh and lively. The palate is generous, round and inviting, with delicious fruit and acidity that cast a smile of happiness only an impressive warm weather white can convey. This is downright delicious. Drink now-2028+ Tasted June 2024   

Crafted from 100% estate grown organically farmed Erbaluce, this bottling utilizes a selection of musts which results in a different flavor and aroma profile than the Rend Nen bottling. This is aged the same as Rend Nen – 7 months in amphora of 16 hl and 7.5 hl along with tonneaux followed by a minimum 2 months in bottle.

2022 Luca Leggero, Langhe Dolcetto DOC (Bio), Retro (RT91) This wine is closed using a composite cork and is tiny production with just 2,310 bottles produced. The steely, mineral driven bouquet wafts up pungent notes of blueberry liqueur, crème de cassis, violets and a pinch of crushed rocks. The palate is fresh and delivers on the lighter side of density with bright, soft acidity and suave, tame tannins, compared to versions of this grape grown in southern Piedmont, where the tannins are firmer. Give this some time after pulling the cork to open-up, it will benefit. Drink now-2027 Tasted June 2024 

Dolcetto dell’Alta Langa is grown in a mountainous region at over 700 meters elevation. Here Leggero has small vineyards that the team cultivates with special care. The result is an interesting and somewhat unique project for the production of quality wines. This wine is 100% Dolcetto aged 7 months in stainless followed by a couple months in bottle and by vinification design is intended to be consumed young.

2021 Luca Leggero, Canavese Nebbiolo DOC (Bio), La Vila (RT92) Another tiny production bottling with just 2,390 bottles produced in this vintage. An attractive expression of Northern Piedmontese Nebbiolo with a brick-red/garnet hue. Classic notes of Marasca cherry, red currant, dried rose petals, wild herbs and a puff of minerality make an appearance. The palate is surprisingly full and round, yet dials-in on its fresh fruit component, no doubt contributed to through the use of amphora. The acids keep this fresh and bright, while the tannins are soft. This is an excellent food that will pair with a variety of dishes. Drink now-2029 Tasted June 2024

100% Nebbiolo that’s aged 10 months in a combination of 25hl & 50hl Austrian oak barrels and in amphora of 7.5hl & 16hl. That is followed by a minimum of 5 months in bottle prior to release into the market.

2021 Luca Leggero, Canavese Nebbiolo DOC (Bio), Maura Nen (RT93+) Production here is larger than the other two red wines, with 4,550 bottles made. In the Maura Nen bottling the depth of fruit and structure is immediately noticeable, a reflection of the fruit selection. Notes of dark red cherry, plum, cedar, spice and minerals initially emerge, with time the complexity deepens and becomes more pronounced. The palate texture is divine and inviting, with a slight mouth-coating, almost sappy quality. The fruit is fresh, bright and vibrant, yet the depth is undeniable. Supporting acids keep this on pointe as the ripe, succulent tannins reveal an elegantly fine grained finish. Drink 2025-2032 Tasted June 2024 

This bottling is the ultimate expression of their terroir and is crafted from Nebbiolo Canavesano, which is also known as Picotener, or Picotendro. After 2 centuries of growing quietly, is the shadows of the region, this variety is once again prospering in the hills of Villareggia. This bottling is 100% Picotendro aged 10 months in a combination of 25hl & 50hl Austrian casks and 7.5hl amphora. This intriguing treatment is followed by a minimum 12 months in bottle. I found it will still benefit from additional mid-term cellaring and of all the wines I tasted from Leggero, this is the most cellar-worthy.