Impressive Current Releases + Mind Blowing 2019 Barolos!
Mauro Molino is a relatively recent Piedmont producer who started the namesake winery in 1982, crafting his first Barolo from the historical Conca vineyard. Over the coming years he added Barolos from the nearby La Morra Crus of Gancia and Gallinotto, while also diversifying the wineries production to include Barbera, Dolcetto, and a small plot in Roero where they grow Arneis.
In 2003 Matteo Molino joined his father, Mauro, at the winery. Matteo, like his father, graduated from Alba Winemaking School, and brought his newly learned expertise to the family business. His innovative thinking ushered in a fresh set of ideas to the winery and launched it into its current series of successful vintages! In 2009 Matteo’s daughter, Martina, also joined the winery. She too, is a graduate of the Alba Winemaking School, and brings with her the latest standards of the industry, especially focused on marketing, which will surely propel the winery in the coming decades. The enthusiasm of Molino family set a high bar of performance.
At the top of Matteo’s priorities is environmental conservation while embracing the utmost respect for the land that has given them the place where they are today. In 2015 they acquired a plot in Barbera d’Asti DOCG which they have named “Radici” (roots) to represent the perfect bond to this territory and to the Molino family which keeps them firmly anchored with its roots. This parcel allows the production of one of their most recent new releases, a wine called Leradici. I consider this wine one of the more unique wines in their portfolio and it is an amazing value in today’s market. I featured it in the Hot Picks section of the website. Today the winery manages 18 hectares, of which about 50% of their production is focused on the various Nebbiolo products.
Matteo commented on the current release Barolos: “2019 was a Classic vintage that underlines the differences between the different cru. Was a great vintage with very good depth and aging potential. The wines have superb freshness and a balanced level of alcohol. 2020 was also a great vintage with softer and rounder wines.”
map © Alessandro Masnaghetti Editore
I look forward to tasting the 2020 Barolos this Fall when they’re released!
2022 Mauro Molino, Barbera d’Alba (RT91) The 2022 vintage of Molino’s d’Alba Barbera is bright, fresh and fruit forward, showing perfect pairing opportunities with a myriad of fatty, rich dishes. A perfect pairing for cheese pizza, this is aged in 100% stainless steel. Medium ruby, it shows dried strawberry, cranberry, fresh red plum, a hint of flowers and herbs on the bouquet. The palate is nicely balanced with generous fruit and bright acidity. This is a perfect, no frill food wine available at a very affordable price. Drink now-2027 to catch is at its peak freshness Tasted December 2023
2021 Mauro Molino, Barbera d’Asti, Leradici (RT93) What an impressive Barbera, one that reveals what terroir alone can do for a grape! The Molino family purchased this property in 2015 and it is proving to be a prize parcel! One might swear this is the product of oak elevage, but that would be mistaken. It is aged in 100% stainless steel and not only does the palate texture lend the round, soft impression of being aged in wood, but the spiciness adds to that character. The sexy bouquet is both refined and elegant, of perfectly balanced fragrance conveyance with notes of deep, sweet cherry, dried mulberry, new leather and spicey sweet herbs. The palate is packed with sensually delicious fruit long and sumptuous and piqued with perfect acidity, this is a top value priced under $20 retail, don’t miss this beauty. Drink now-2028+ Tasted December 2023
2022 Mauro Molino, Langhe Nebbiolo (RT91+) Crafted from younger vines grown in calcareous and clay soils, this is aged in 30% used wood with the balance in stainless steel. The combination of aging vessels has created a wine with a beautiful mouthfeel, one that balances both freshness and supple roundness. The density of the bouquet is articulately detailed and driven in a fruit forward style revealing classic notes of sweet strawberry, red raspberry, currants, hints of rose water and soaring florals. The palate is delicious with a medium weight and gently mouth coating given its medium acidity and soft tannins. Drink now-2027+ leaning toward the earlier side if you prefer freshness. Tasted December 2023
2019 Mauro Molino, Barolo (RT93) This classico Barolo is blended from grapes grown in a variety of vineyards, receives a medium-long maceration, and is then aged in 10-15 year old Botti for 20 months. In the 2019 vintage it delivers at a high quality level, is medium translucent garnet, and shows soft, supple aromatics with notes of Morello cherry, dried plum, menthol, rose hips and a smattering of sumptuous bresaola. The palate is delicious, round and satisfying, creating a complete early drinking Barolo that can be enjoyed now, or over the coming decade-plus. Affordable, approachable, and savory, this is a perfect pairing for grilled meats and sausages. Drink now-2034+ Tasted December 2023
2019 Mauro Molino, Barolo, La Serra (RT96+) Soaring, finetuned aromatics define this amazing Barolo, they are focused like a laser, zeroing in on so many different nuances that create a cornucopia of allurement. Spiced pomegranate liqueur, exotic raspberry compote, sappy balsam and hints of Christmas spice lead the charge. The bouquet becomes a shapeshifter, constantly ebbing and morphing. This is totally amazeballs! The palate is where the textural experience takes on a weightless form while delivering a thumpy bass note on the front end leading to a mouth-coating finish where the tannins deliver an utterly suave and sublime finish. This is a masterpiece of winemaking from a stellar vintage! La Serra is a superb example of enlightened winemaking skills, fruit from a single parcel of estate property, the deft use of 20 month-old used small barrels is masterful. There isn’t the slightest suggestion of small barrel on the bouquet. Drink 2029-2047+ Tasted December 2023
2019 Mauro Molino, Barolo, Conca (RT96) The 2019 Conca, from the flagship vineyard where Molino started winemaking, is another of their single parcel bottlings. It presents a masculine bouquet as notes of ripe black cherry, damson plum, mentholated anise, dried lavender, and mineral dust rise from the glass. This is impressive with just 15 minutes of air post cork-pulling, but I suspect, this, and the La Serra will both take a long winters nap in the next few years, so patience is suggested. This too is a shapeshifter wine, as it morphs into many aromatic expressions. The palate is serious and deeply fruited as it tiptoes with elegance across the tight rope of weightlessness. The acidity shows a super sexy side on Barolo, lavishing your mouth with freshness, the tannins super ripe and succulent! A thing of powerful scale and handsome stature. This wine sees 22-24 months of aging and like the La Serra, is only aged in small, used, French oak barrels. Like La Serra, again, you would never know it! Drink 2029-2050+ Tasted December 2023
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