Domaine Economou, Crete, Greece
Yiannis Economou is the mastermind behind this progressive thinking Greek estate, which is in the highlands of the eastern side of Crete. Yiannis was trained in Alba and perfected his skills at revered estates like Scavino, Ceretto and Chateau Margaux, where he worked and learned from master winemakers. He started Domaine Economou in 1994, where he works 16 hectares of naturally farmed vineyards at over 600 meters, specializing in a local variety called Liatiko, a small-berried clone not found anywhere else in Greece. Here the self-cultivated vines are 35-70 years of age.
He also vinifies Mandilari, Vilana, Thrapsathiri, Assyrtiko and others, all produced using natural methods and minimal sulfur. He only releases wines when he feels they’re ready, which is quite a contrast to today’s current market trend of harvest, age and release to market.
The estate’s wines have limited distribution stateside, can be hard to find and lean toward the luxury market pricewise, but I assure you, they are worth seeking out. A truly unique find in today’s wine market.
2004 Domaine Economou, Oikonomoy, Antigone (RT96) Popped and poured, there is no need for Slow O or decanting, it is ready to share its magic upon serving! This is the current release for this wine, bottled recently after long, extended aging at the winery. At 19 years of age, it is completely mature showing a pale, golden garnet hue and a broad spectrum of tertiary notes. The aromatic lift is astonishing, with late fall dominant aromas of dried red cherries, spicy apricot liqueur, dried orange zest, crunchy forest floor, a soaring cornucopia of dried roses, lilacs and violets, and a punctuation mark of dried figs and dates. The palate is equally developed and mature, showing tertiary fruit with soft, gentle notes, bright acidity and relatively firm tannins. Almost a hybrid between mature Nebbiolo and 50 year-old Vintage Porto, but without the high alcohol of Port. There is no need for further cellaring, this is at peak maturity and ready to drink. I suggest drinking the entire bottle once opened, as I found it faded on day two. Drink now-2034+ Tasted October 2023