1998 Taittinger, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Comtes de Champagne (RT95) This beautiful, fully mature Comtes showed very well this evening as an expressive bouquet filled with swirls of deliciously ripe yellow stone fruit, smokey flint, and layers of brioche fill the glass. This is truly impressive as the blend of Grand Cru vineyards combine to create an alluring glass of precisely moussed wine. This has aged slow-and-steady and shows a freshness on the palate that few Tete de Cuvee’s from this vintage reveal. It should continue to show well for some time to come. Drink now-2033+, tasted September 2023     

2006 Taittinger, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Comtes de Champagne (RT97+) Served fittingly well alongside the 1998 Comtes, the 2006 reveals another amazing vintage of this blend of Grand Cru vineyards as bright, fresh aromas of laser focused white peach, crisp Anjou Pear, hints of dried apricot, and a cloud of smokey, mineral laced nuance with attractive pastry notes is beginning to emerge. This rounds out a bit with time in the glass and is one that benefits from a larger stem than a go-to flute. The balance and precision on the palate is extraordinary as the textural gravitation draws one back again and again. This is a young Comtes with a brilliant future, one that is already showing lavishly, but that has a long future. Don’t drink all your bottles young, or you’ll miss the true magic of Comtes. Drink now-2036+, tasted September 2023