Fattoria Poggerino 2017, 2016, 2015
This modest sized winery is in central Chianti Classico, just north of Radda. The winery’s focus, it’s heart and soul, is the Sangiovese grape, although it does produce a modest amount of Merlot. There are roughly 29 acres of vineyard on the estate, where owner Piero Lanza, who also serves as oenologist and agronomist, focuses on organic farming practices. It is his deep commitment to the Sangiovese grape combined with organic farming, that produces fruit of exceptional quality. He uses no fertilizer, herbicides or fungicides.
The estates vineyards are located at 400-500 meters with optimal exposure to the south and southwest. The rocky, galestro soil provide perfect growing conditions for the Sangiovese grape. More recent plantings have favored clonal selections, which results in smaller berries and bunches. This creates more concentration and sweetness in the wines.
What I find most attractive about Poggerino’s winery is the house style, which I define as progressive, elegant and embodying an almost Burgundian style of transparency. The Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva are the stand out wines, crafted from pure Sangiovese that have been destemmed and then fermented and macerated in concrete. The Riserva is then aged in large Slavonian botti, while the Chianti Classico is aged in a combination of botti and large, neutral tonneaux. The result is a sense of place and a commitment to the Sangiovese grape, communicated through the transparency and purity of the winemaking. Total winery production is roughly 50,000 bottles per vintage.
These wines offer exceptional value, I strongly suggest sourcing them and savoring their exceptional character. All the wines were tasted multiple times.
2016 Poggerino, Toscana Rosso, Il Labirinto (RT 91) This pure expression of Sangiovese is aged in concrete for 10 months. A delicious wine that shows a translucent ruby hue with a soft Tuscan bouquet that’s framed with spicy notes. The palate is filled with ripe fruit, soft acidity and is easy drinking, displaying enormous curb appeal. Utterly delicious, a perfect pizza, pasta and everyday wine. Drink now-2024+
2017 Poggerino, Chianti Classico (RT 91) This challenging vintage was handled as well as can be expected at Poggerino. It’s pure Sangiovese, that is both forward and soft, yet amply delicious with excellent ripe fruit, spice and a sumptuous style. Showing tasty red cherry, balsam and dreid white flowers with soft notes of underbrush and hints of spice, it reveals a round mouthfeel with soft acidity and supple tannins. This should be tasty over the next few years and is a delicious food wine. Drink now-2024+
2016 Poggerino, Chianti Classico (RT 93) With production of roughly 40,000 bottles, the 2016 over-delivers in nearly every way. The house style is on glorious display as notes of red cherry, Tuscan spice and brambles dominate. The palate is seductively weightless, showing enormous elegance and sophistication leading to a beautifully balanced mouthfeel that delivers pleasant fruit and sweet ripe tannins. A total bargain that I recommend buying in quantity! Terrific for early to midterm cellaring. Drink now-2028+
2015 Poggerino, Chianti Classico Riserva, Bugialla (RT 95+) A magnificent Chianti Classico Riserva crafted from 45-year-old, low density vines. Showing a dark, brooding ruby garnet hue, the bouquet wafts up dark Morello cherry, super ripe strawberry, dust and hints of saddle leather. With time its bouquet becomes more complex, showing floral notes, hints of dry, fall fruit and Tuscan spice. The palate is equally complex and beautiful, with superb delicious fruit, wonderful acidity and perfectly ripe, sweet tannin. Masterful in every way! Drink now-2035+