Paitin – The Mind-Blowing Latest Releases – Winter 2022

The continuing trend at Paitin remains focused on producing world class wines of superb beauty. Most recently they acquired a parcel in the legendary Basarin vineyard of Barbaresco where they are now bottling a mind-blowing cru Barbaresco. Their first release of this wine – reviewed below – sets a very high bar in the 2018 vintage, one of less than perfect conditions. This wine is just now arriving stateside.

Of even higher merit is their 2016 Vecche Vigne Barbaresco, which is undoubtedly one of the finest wines to ever be produced by this historical estate. With proper cellaring it has the potential to be the greatest wine to ever emerge from Paitin. It is, in short, a compelling wine of enormous finesse, balanced with extraordinary power, one that has the potential for perfection at maturity.

The Pasquero-Elia family lineage managing every aspect of this winery – Giovanni & Silvano and rising wine star Luca – continue the greatness of this historical estate, but carrying the torch to new heights 200 years and 8 generations of history have set this estate up for their amazing success to blossom! Thank you, gentlemen, for all you have given the world of wine, and all that lies in the future.   

2020 Paitin, Langhe DOP, Arneis, Elisa (RT 91) First bottled in the 1973 vintage to honor one of the family matriarchs who oversaw the winery during the second world war. Showing a pale, extremely light hue leaning toward the slightest hint of straw, sweet aromas of yellow peach, ripe honeydew, citrus blossom and floral notes underpinned with white lilies emerge. The palate is rich and round in contrast to its pale hue, even revealing a contrasting hint of tropical ripeness, yet all the while it maintains a textural tension that ensures its seductive intrigue. This is a beautiful, lush vintage for this wine, one that stands proud. Drink now-2025   

2019 Paitin, Langhe DOP, Freisa, Bonina (RT89) Best served slightly chilled, this is a light, summer sipper, perfect for hanging with friends on the porch while sharing conversation. The uplifting, airy 2019 Bonina shows an elegant personality of Freisa as sweet, red berry & succulent strawberry fruit fills the glass. The palate is uplifting and perfectly apportioned, showing this grape varieties food friendly nature. Aged for 6 months in neutral botti, this is a perfect way to cool down after a steaming hot summer afternoon. Drink now-2024

2019 Paitin, Barbera d’Alba DOP, Serra (RT 91) Aged for a year in traditional, neutral Slavonian botti ranging from 10-25 HL, this beauty delivers an attractive bouquet of mulberry, strawberry, tobacco and saddle leather. Its transparent style reveals a core of ripe fruit marked by delicious acidity and soft, supple tannins. A food friendly, early drinking Barbera that pairs beautifully with food. Perfect for early to medium cellaring, this is not crafted for long term aging. Enjoy the freshness of the fruit. Drink now-2026     

2017 Paitin, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOP, Campolive (RT 93) The deeply hued 2017 Campolive reveals the merits of longer aging of older Barbera vines planted in 1970. This is an organic wine that uses only modest amounts of sulfur and copper in the vineyards and only when needed. Showing a deep, rich bouquet that bursts with ripe blackberry plums, sour cherry, herbs and a streak of Piedmont minerality. The aromatic package is impressive leading to a broad-shouldered palate with generous fruit, pliant acidity and surprisingly firm tannins. A truly fine showing for this age-worthy Barbera. Drink 2023-2032  

2019 Paitin, Nebbiolo Langhe DOP, Starda (RT 91) This tasty Nebbiolo Langhe continues to deliver one of the finest values in the category, bar none! Aged between six months and a year in neutral botti, the current vintage of Starda is nothing short of impressive. Stunning mentholated aromatics built of Marasca cherry, pomegranate, sweet strawberry and a hint of spice lead to a very well, artfully tailored, clean palate layered with sappy ripe fruit, lovely fresh acidity and sweet, soft tannins. Another outstanding vintage for this juicy wine, first class craftsmanship with attention to detail delivers a highly attractive early drinking Nebbiolo! Drink now-2027

2017 Paitin, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOP, Ca Veja (RT 92) The name Ca Veja, is small hamlet in the Rivoli region of South Alba. The combination of older vines and longer neutral cask aging – 18 months – creates a wine of enormous character, perfect for mid-term cellaring. Showing deep, robust dark red fruit with a core of plum, black cherry, cedar and spice. The bouquet is captivating, beautiful and round, the palate ripe and sumptuous with excellent finesse that keeps drawing you back for another sip. Fresh acidity and sweet, ripe tannins harmonize in an attractive manner. This is a gorgeous Langhe. Drink 2022-2030      

2018 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Serraboella (RT 93+) With its light garnet hue, the 2018 Serraboella harvested from the well-known Southern Neive Cru, shows captivating notes of mentholated raspberry, aromatic cedar, cinnamon and sweet herbs. The utterly weightless palate is a function of its precisely measured balance of fruit, acidity and silky-smooth tannins, all delivered through the superb winemaking of Silvano. This is a fabulous Barbaresco that delivers an amazing value. Not to be missed from a challenging vintage, this wine reveals the stunningly transparent wine making style of Paitin. Drink now-2035  

2018 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Basarin (RT 95+)Pale ruby garnet, the exotic and unique aromatics soar with notes of plum, pomegranate, Christmas spice cake and balsam sap. This is intoxicatingly beautiful, a magnificently aroma driven Barbaresco, while the elegant, finesse packed mouth feel balances weightlessness with ripe fruit, zesty acidity and super fine-grained tannins. A wine of utter beauty, this is the first vintage of Basarin produced by Paitin and is a must buy that every Barbaresco fan should own! I adore the style of this beautiful work of art. Drink now-2035+

2017 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Sori’ Paitin (RT 94) Bright red cherry, spiced plum, rose water and balsam lead to a fruit layered palate that shows a gorgeous expression of this impressive terroir. The yummy palate fruit is buttressed with tremendous acidity and firm, but ripe tannins. Everything is in synchronization, this 2017 is a fine expression of the vintage and should deliver excellent early to mid-term cellaring potential. I’m a big fan of this more masculinely styled Barbaresco that’s got some umph in its delivery. Drink 2023-2032+

2018 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Sori’ Paitin (RT 95) This longstanding flagship bottling for Paitin reveals drop dead, beautiful aromatics with multi layers of spiced marasca cherry, cranberry, sweet herbs, cedar and raspberry compote. The palate is finesse driven and reveals that attractive weightlessness that makes Nebbiolo one of my go-to varieties. The palate is sublime and alluring, bringing you back again and again for another sip with its perfect fruit/acid/tannin balance. Another outstanding achievement for Paitin in the 2018 vintage, this is a real thing of beauty with excellent aging potential. Drink 2025-2040+

2004 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Sori’ Paitin Vecchie Vigne (RT 95) In a previous review I tasted a 2007 and 2008 Vecchie Vigne alongside the 2015. My focus in that review was to compare the trend of the estate wine style in the post-Dante Scaglione period (2010 and later) compared to 2009 and earlier. This time it was the 2004 Vecchie Vigne in contrast to the 2016. This 2004 aligns with the 2007 and 2008 quite well stylistically, showing a darker, deeper, coloration, powerful aromatics and impressive concentration of fruit. The hint of French oak quickly blows off once in the glass revealing stunning depth and bass notes of black cherry, ripe plums, dried rose petals, herbs and green olives. The palate remains fresh and energized with bright fruit and a weightless essence. This is evolving on the “slow boat to China” as the saying goes, but is certainly in its early peak drinking window. A fabulous 2004! Drink now-2034+    

2016 Paitin, Barbaresco DOCG, Sori’ Paitin Vecchie Vigne (RT 97+) This bottling is utterly splendid and was followed for a number of days after its initial taste. During that period, it kept consistently improving. The power and laser focus of the 2016 Vecchie Vigne is apparent on first sniff as notes of mentholated red cherry liqueur, fresh roses, pine sap and freshly crushed mineral dust make a powerful impression. Multiple dimensions emerge in the glass while the pure and elegant weightless palate delivers utter magnificence. This impressive bottling is one of the great secrets of Barbaresco and is crafted from vines planted by Secondo Pasquero-Elia on a plot in the Sori Paitin vineyard planted between 1948 and 1953. The focus and purity of winemaking sets a standard of excellence, do not miss this benchmark wine! Lay this down is cellar and be there when its mature development has the potential for perfection! Wow, just wow, the greatest wine I’ve ever tasted from this historical estate! Drink 2026-2046+     

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