1978 Produttori del Babaresco, Barbaresco Riserva, Ovello (RT95) Slow O’d for the day, decanted an hour prior to serving. Here the structure and freshness take a step up from the Rabaja. While layered with burly terroir-driven fruit, the spice component is replaced with hints of cedar and a smear of tar. Overall, the freshness and structure make this feel more like an ’82 than a wine 5 years older. Glorious showing for Ovello tonight, and while the Rabaja was sexier, the Ovello proved to me to be the more interesting of the two.