1995 Gaja, Barolo, Sperss (RT 94) Bought on release and cellared since, this was the last vintage Gaja declared Sperss a Barolo until 2013, when his kids pulled the Barbera out. From 1996 through 2012 it was declared Langhe given the small amount of Barbera (3-4%) added. SO’d for the afternoon, then followed over the course of 4 days, it was served directly from bottle and kept in the cellar, with the corks simply reinserted after pouring. Showing a dark, brooding ruby hue with few hints of being over 20 years of age, the level of freshness sets this wine apart from its 1995 brethren with notes of violets, tar and deep, black cherry showing. With time in the glass it builds momentum revealing more complexity with notes of dried flowers, minerals and that classic Serralunga ferrous character. On the palate it demonstrates what class is all about, washing the mouth with absolute balance, excellent acidity and a long, finely framed tannic finish. Pleasantly surprised this bottle has risen to the level it has, bravo Angelo! Based on this superb showing, the 1995 Sperss should continue to drink well for another 15-20 years, perhaps longer.