1998 Giacosa, Barolo, Falletto (RT 94) SO’d for the better part of the day and served directly from bottle. Tight and wound up on first pour and showing some expected bottle funk. Light garnet in color, a trade mark of Giacosa. Once the bottle funk blew off and the fruit surfaced this showed gloriously well and kept improving through the night. Lifted aromatics revealing dried red cherry, sous bois, goudron and layered with cedar and white flowers. On the palate it showed true elegance with a beautiful balance of fruit, acid and fine tannin, creating an almost weightlessness. Over time the palate became fuller, rounder and richer, but it never lost its classic balance. An outstanding bottle that embodies all the things traditional Barolo should be. Drink now – 2030+
1999 Pio Cesare, Barolo, Ornato (RT 94+) SO’d for the same length of time as the Giacosa and also served directly from bottle. Here the wine shows a level of beauty that balances fruit and structure in an artful, majestic way. Darkly hued ruby with barely hints of garnet on the rim, it wafts up notes of black cherry, menthol, anise and lavender, creating an overall brooding character. On the palate its firm structure shows incredible potential for aging for many years to come, while the acidity and tannin show a polished character, smooth and silky. With time in the glass it firms up, showing the masculine structure that gives it a powerful overall feel. This is a finely crafted bottle of Cru Barolo. Bravo Pio Boffa, the man behind this fabulous winery! Still on its uphill climb! Drink now – 2039+
2004 Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Romirasco (RT 96+) This was opened the evening prior to this tasting and took a full day to unwind and show its inner beauty, a reminder how long some Nebbiolo’s can take. Revealing a pale ruby garnet, the bouquet shows mentholated rose petal, black cherry, goudron and forest floor built on an incredibly powerful frame. Clearly the fruit for this beast comes from Grand Cru terroir. On the palate it was equally super charged, with red berry fruit filling your mouth, underpinned with incredibly well integrated acidity and perfectly ripe, sweet tannin. As the night progressed it continued to morph like a shape shifter, showing its magic. A thrillingly captivating Barolo of top caliber. Drink now (with a healthy decant) – 2040+